electronics

Almost faceplant, repairs and small upgrades…

I took R2 out a little while ago, since there was a huge Star Wars fan at work who was leaving the company, and I decided to bring R2 and make his day.

On the way there, my small cart that I pulled R2 on, came to a full stop, and R2 plummeted forward.. was I finally going to have the dreaded face plant? On a gravelly city street none the less? *gasp*

Fortunately my lightning fast reaction managed to save the droid before the front hit the mix of gravel and tarmac, but not without battle damage. The tiny door around the charging bay panel took a hit. The hinge was bent, and the door was broken off in two places. I was lucky I found all three parts of the hatch to begin with!

I got through the day (and a subsequent official Disney / LFL event) by adding a bit of scotch tape… first to hold the panel together, second to hold it in place.

R2white

Yesterday was the day to start fixing that, and also to make some time for some small upgrades!

First off, I managed to get the hatch lose from the hinge inside. The hinge was bent beyond repair, as it is totally impossible to remove the hinge and correct it. It is one of those things that needs to be done before it is installed. I had glued the hinge to the inside of the robot using E-6000 glue, which turned out to be holding the hinge insanely hard. In spite of trying to cut it lose, bend it lose or pry it lose, it only resulted in me breaking the hinge even more. I took a sturdy pair of pliers and broke off all parts from the hinge sticking out, leaving only the “flat” part that was still glued to the inside of the skin. I would have to work with this and glue the new hinge on top of the old one…

So, for starters, there’s a gaping hole in the front of my droid. New hinge is not yet mounted.

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At least I’ve got a straight, working hinge..

The hatch has been glued together with superglue.

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Technically, I could build a new one, but the painting is a bit of a hassle when you live in an apartment, and getting the weathering to match might be even more so. Besides, the visible cracks can still be extra weathering and battle damage. I have even considered adding a darker wash to the crack to make it even more visible.

Next step: I took my front speakers and changed the way they were sitting in my amp. They wer just clipped in my amp, and one of the clips had broken lose, so I soldered the cables inside my already modified and soldered amplifier (see Octagon Volume Control) and added a proper, sturdy connector to be able to remove it easily:

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I have also prepped a second amplifier, that is supposed to drive two speakers that will be sitting right inside my side vents.

So, since I was in doing things, I pried lose the back plates from my old side vents… and let some air in.

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Next step: cut out and lightly bend new back plates out of perforated aluminium

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In place, they are still see through…

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But, with an added layer of black felt behind it, it should be invisible. I still need to add a bit of weathering to the back plate though.

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At the moment, the idea is to mount speakers from within on metal brackets, and possible cover the white frame parts in black felt, and surround the speaker with black felt as well, creating a totally black trap behind the vent. It will create a little bit of depth, but also not showing anything of the frame behind the perforated plate. The plate needs to be perforated in order to let the sound waves through properly, of course.

These speakers

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will be mounted on two brackets like this

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on the inside. The brackets were made from aluminium and I broke off two of them before I realized that heating up the aluminium with my blowtorch REALLY helps when you need to bend it! =)

I also soldered the cables in place needed for the new amp and pulled out a power cord for it. Done. I still need to route out the second volume knob like I did on the first droid, but I will require a little help with that this time.

I also took out my Rogue Robotics mp3 shield, which is really old and have no updated libraries for my arduino since 2012, and resoldered the 3,5 mm socket back in place, it had broken lose somewhere. It works now, but it sounds like there is no volume coming from it. Fortunately, it is no problem for my amplifier!

A bit of updating and tweaking the sound code in my arduinos (The new panel with the USB connectors is SO great! Best idea ever!)

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… and it is working a lot better. STill lots of things to mount and tweak.

Next step will be to program my new XBee and replace the old one in the transmitter. Not because it is faulty, but rather because of the huge antenna. It’s not like I need 300m+ range on my droid after all. The much smaller one has a more limited range, 100 meters in open terrain, but as long as I have a range of 10 meters, I’m more than fine. I never like to be away from my droid anyway …

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That’s it for now… more shortly!

By |2016-12-06T00:00:20+01:00May 12th, 2015|R2-D2|Comments Off on Almost faceplant, repairs and small upgrades…

Octagon Volume Control part II

To continue from the last post , where I built the octagon volume control, It has now been installed in the droid.

I replaced the hollow mesh aluminium plate with black felt, to get a non-reflective, light absorbing surface behind the octagon port to obscure the insides, and also to not show the plastics holding the potentiometer into place. It did the job perfectly.

Also, as I showed earlier, I had to properly align the volume know in the middle of the cut away portion of the octagon port.

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Enter the lovely world of 3D printing. My digital caliper gave me the measurements I needed and 15 minutes later I had a perfect inside bushing for the knob.

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I had previously glued the knob in to place with rubber glue so it would be easy to remove. This time, the printed part is just squeezed inside the knob, and the knob is squeezed inside the 3d printed part. No glue needed and a perfect fit!

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It even looks centered!

By |2016-12-06T00:00:24+01:00March 23rd, 2015|R2-D2|Comments Off on Octagon Volume Control part II

First Ever R2 Builders Sweden Gathering!

This weekend marked the first ever R2 Builders Sweden gathering!

We met up at Nixon’s place, some had to travel further than others (think 600 kilometers, one way. (that’s 375 miles for you Americans). Funny that they still managed to show up earlier than me, who only lives about 32 kilometers (or 20 miles) away..

Anyway, We met at Thomas Nixon’s house, and it was Thomas,me (Only builders present with completed droids), David, Micke B and Anton for a weekends worth of building and nerding. Thomas has graciously converted his kitchen/outer hall area to a workshop for us.

club_working

I brought a few things with me, both to show off a bit, and some things to work on. I brought my just completed amp with octagon port mod to show, and also my double wheel set that had a motor burn a while back, and to get it fixed I could use a bit of help…

After looking at what others are doing, I decided to not cut off the second octagon port knob, since Anton immediately said “I can cut that off with my lathe in five minutes next week”. That certainly beats cutting with a noisy dremel for a number of hours!

So, off to work on my old wheel plates. Since I had forgotten a few tools, naturally the ones I needed, it took a while to be able to remove the locking sprints, but once the wheel was off, and we managed to get all the treadlocked screws that held the motor in place.

treadlock

The treadlock is great, but it requires high temperature to even try and get it loose. I managed to with my soldering iron, heat up the screws enough to get 5 of the siz screws holding one of the motors in place

(Old pic to illustrate how the motors are mounted)

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Last screw was impossible to move, but since the motor (or at leas the gear box) was messed up anyway, I cut the head off with my dremel, and forced the screw through the hole to get rid of the motor.

Next step was to take the replacement motor and drill a cavity into the motor axel…

micke_drilling

Basically, what I was tryingto achieve was this:

bild 1

Once the hold in the axel was there, next step was to assembled the motor into the holder, screw in the grub screw (with treadlocker) and assemble the holder. The final re-assembly of the motor holder will be done at home.

I also spent some time desoldering the volume pot on my second, bigger amplifier (for the secondary speakers) for my R2, for the similar octagon port mod for the rear octagon port.

micke desoldering

Once that was done, I built a new breakout board for the pot, and did some other small odds and ends, such as painting a few bits and pieces until I considered myself done for the day.

club_Working_2

After a lovely dinner made by Thomas girlfriend, we all just chilled out and relaxed a bit in his home theater…

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After that, it was time to go home and get some well deserved sleep.

I had to miss out on day #2 (but I was told it ended quite early), since I had things planned with the family..

All in all a great day. Build pics courtesy of Thomas Nixon and Micke Brodin.

By |2016-12-06T00:00:24+01:00March 23rd, 2015|R2-D2|Comments Off on First Ever R2 Builders Sweden Gathering!
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