styrene

Slicing up the head!

After several attempts at growing my dome (actually I think I managed slightly), and getting my inner dome to fit properly, I decided to go the easy route and split my inner dome in two. Attempt three and four at growing the dome, with proper aluminum tape did not give the desired results.

After sanding the inner dome down to make it slightly less pointy and fit better, I still had a gap at the bottom of the dome, something I did not like!

A Sanded inner dome, ready to be sliced open..

So, I marked a line that would be nice and well below the upper panels, and took out my now almost destroyed dremel knockoff and cut a slit in the dome.

Once that was done, out came the blade:

It was hard work, but was easier than I thought it would be! Plenty of silicone lubricant standing by to get the blade to run as smoothly as possible. Once the cut was made, I sanded off the edges, and my R2 now had a rather odd look..

I taped the upper part of the dome to the inside of the outer dome.

I’m lucky enough this is the only large cut I need to make. The inner dome is within acceptable sizes so I do not need to actually cut a few millimeters off it at the bottom, something that would have been really tough, no doubt.

I also got around to remove the rather large remains of when the aluminum ring was welded together. This was almost a centimeter thick of weld residue on the inside of the weld. This prevented the metal ring from spin properly on the body of my R2.

I missed out on a “before” pic, but not too bad for a guy with only a dremel knockoff, eh? =)

Anyway, even though I’ve cut up R2’s head, he doesn’t mind and shows no side effects after the operation…

This really marks the first day of working with the dome. I have not yet decided if I should try and sand off the spin lines from the dome or not. I tried sanding the inner dome to a dull coat, just to get an idea what it would be like, and there are many, many hours of work, should I go down that route.

Since I’m planning on having everything removable (yes, everything) it is something that can be done further down the line, should I chose to do so.

Anyway: I mentioned that I had primed a few parts recently!

They are mostly ok, but since I’m not used to spray painting, I need to sand and paint again. That’s the idea anyway to get a smooth finish on the droid!

I did notice, however that there are some bubbles in the resin parts and some styrene joints that I need to attend to before continuing the paint job:

Those bubbles will not do! Also, I realized that I need to apply some more putty on the joins between the styrene and resin half-moons that I have on the center foot, since they have not bonded properly!

Last thing done today was making a motor mount for my Pittman motor, that will take care of the dome movement. Since this is imported from the US, first step on the agenda was to tap the mounting holes in the motor for european standards. Tapping to M5 here below:

Yes, my desk is suitable messy during this build.

I strengthened the back portion of the upper ring of my droid with 7 more millimeters of styrene, and drilled mounting holes to mount my pittman motor.

I have no idea (yet) how to actually fasten the gear to the motor, so right now it is just lying around the axle, to test the distance, and I’m sure this will provide great traction for my dome movements!

Tomorrow, I’ll see if I can mount the gear properly, and see if I can’t hook up my Syren 10 motor controller as well, to get a first test of the moving head!

Can’t wait!

By |2016-12-06T00:01:43+01:00March 7th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Slicing up the head!

Dome Wrestling and sanding and bonding and priming…

So, Even though my build has been a bit slow this week, I haven’t really constructed anything else but the horseshoes.. 😮

I have been wrestling with my dome, followed Daren’s most excellent advice of growing the inner dome. I froze my inner ring, put two layers of duct tape around it, placed it inside my inner dome.

When i say “wrestling”, I really mean it. It was hard work trying to get the inner ring inside it, until I managed to get it cold enough so it would shrink as much as it had to.

Once it was back to room temperature, I put my dome outside so I could (finally) get my inner ring out.

The very next day I could not fit my inner ring inside my inner dome anymore.

Besides, I figured I needed another layer of tape to begin with.. I started conservative..

So, at the moment, my inner ring is locked inside my inner dome with 3 layers of duct tape around the inner ring.

A big thermos of boiling water will (hopefully) help me get the inner ring loose, and this may be the end of my inner dome problems!

Apart from that, I’ve also gone over ALL my seams of all the loose styrene parts (legs, feet, horseshoes, LDP etc..) with Tamaiya Putty, and sanded most of it off.

The result?

A spotty, but smoother result.

Once done, I also started priming some of my parts. My center foot and ankle and my for shell was really all I had time for.

I think I was a little impatient and I got the paint on a little too thick on a few places, but hey.. it’s primer and I will sand it anyway.

It also helped me identify more uneven places that is in need of Tamaiya putty!. Got a few bubbles in the resin on my center foot half moons (the ones I didn’t build myself) that I hadn’t seen before.

Lastly, I had to redo one entire foot cylinder. Seems I needed to sand the PVC more to get the glue to bond properly! =)

No pictures for now, but really, not that interesting progress-wise anyway… 😉

By |2016-12-06T00:01:44+01:00March 6th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Dome Wrestling and sanding and bonding and priming…

Scratch building ankle cylinders!

Down by his feet, R2, has a strange cylinder that sticks out. Actually on the middle foot he has two, but I have two of them from resin already, but I need two more!

After looking around, I found a 32mm PVC pipe for plumbing that is sold by the meter and went to the store to pick one up!

Looks good, but what I didn’t know is that CA glue does not work with PVC. First attempt down the drain.

Second attempt: styrene cement! Works much better, and after sanding the PVC it actually sticks!

Why glue in the first place? Well, the cylinders have certain grooves cut in to them, and it is slightly bigger, so I decided to cover the 32mm pipe in 1mm styrene, making it 34 mm in diameter, and cover it in sections, so I’ll get the groves around the cylinder!

First thing, is to sand the PVC properly to get the glue to stick. Second was just wrapping a piece of 1mm styrene carefully measured right around the middle, and tape it up good for a couple of hours!

Once that has set, I continue with the next “section”.

In order to eke the groove in-between sections the same size, I used a piece of electrical wire I had laying around, and essentially made a hoop for the next “section” to rest upon. I wish I had thought of that before I glued the first section in place on the first cylinder…

So, section by section, separated by electrical wire, I build up the new cylinder, and ape really well, until I get something like a small tape-mummy:

Once the first one was dry enough, I glued up my second one, and cut open the first with my dremel.

I needed to add a little extra glue, so I let it sit for a while. A quick test fitting on one of my legs told me I had the right dimensions!

Now the easy part is done. The cylinders also have end caps, that has some deal to it, and that was my next task.

I started just making simple end caps for the cylinders to have something to work with.

I don’t have a circle cutter, so these were cut by hand. I started with a square piece, draw the outline of the original tube on them, then cut closer and closer to the line until all that was left was easily removed and rounded with some sand paper.

Once these were done, I made a end cap base out of 1mm styrene. This will be glued on top of these end caps that will just close up the tubes and nothing else.

A 50 euro cent coin I had laying around had the perfect size for these. A Swedish 1 krona coin would do as well, but oddly enough the closest coin of the right size at hand was a 50 euro cent…

These are 6 mm (about 1/4 of an inch) smaller in diameter than the first plugs. It is these plates that will also get a sort of “handle” on them.

To make the handle, I started with 3mm styrene and glued 3 pieces together to get the proper thickness.

Once the glue had set enough, it was all about cutting and filing and sanding…

until the same pieces looks like this…

A quick test fit on the end base.. looks pretty ok. Will need a bit more sanding to be perfect…

But I had to do a test fit on the ankle cylinder, to see what it will look like.. Not too bad! =)

Now, time for some long overdue sleep, so I have enough strength to work on the droid tomorrow ! 😉

//Micke

By |2016-12-06T00:01:45+01:00March 2nd, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Scratch building ankle cylinders!
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