electronics

Paintjob started

After postponing the moment for a long time, i decided it was time to start painting my R2.

It is summer after all, and the smaller pieces can easily be painted on my balcony, so I started with the dome panels…

The inner dome has an area that will be visible but painted and I started eith this area. I cleaned the area to be painted properly to get rid of finger prints and other things that can cause the paint to not stick properly.

After that, it was time to gently spray thin layers until I had a thick coat of primer.

 

Once dry, I sanded the area with 400 grit sandpaper, and applied a second coat. This second coat will be treated with 800 grit sanding paper before applying the blue paint. Not too bad, eh?

 

Next up was the pie panels. These had already bedn polished to get the spinning lines to disappear, and after two coats they look great

I also experimented with the side panels. These have not been sanded, but I think that with two coats of primer and proper sanding, I may not need to treat them anything further.

Lastly, as a welcome surprise, I also received my Power Distribution Boards. One for me, and one for Sigge.

This just reminds me that I’ll need to redo my entire innards and electronics board…

By |2016-12-06T00:01:31+01:00June 12th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Paintjob started

Modified Electronics and New Coin Returns

Hello!

After a break where I’ve focused on other, more important things in life for a few days, I got around to do some more building today!

It felt good actually doing something again. Building is like therapy!

First off, I was given a few aluminum … thingies .. that works extremely well to divert heat from my motor controllers!

I purchased some thermal grease and took apart the motor controllers, added a healthy amount of grease, then added more grease to the aluminum surrounds, and finally screwed these to my new heat sinks!

My first version was to screw these on the insides, in order to have more space for cool air to cool these down, but I quickly realized that I would not be able to see the status LED’s on my motor controllers!

These will do fine, and allow plenty of air to pass through.

This should make the motors to not overheat so easily… hopefully!

A few days ago, I picked up a 0.8 mm thick aluminum plate, and decided to try and do something with my coin returns and vents. I had made one coin return before, and the idea was simply to exchange the from plate, which was styrene with aluminum tape, with proper aluminum.

I started marking out the pieces and started cutting them out. I used the same idea as for styrene. I scored with a sharp break-blade knife and a steel ruler, and this enabled me to bend the aluminum back and forth until it snapped and gave me a very clean edge.

I scored the edges where I needed to cut out, and also masked this off with tape, to (try) to keep the aluminum surface nice and clean. At this state, I drilled holes in the corners and I bent the plates using a scrap piece from the frame as guide, and checked with the placement on the droid.

Thin aluminum was not that hard to work with, and I decided to actually try and make the entire coin return out of aluminum. I printed out some templates, glued it on the aluminum and started cutting.

I used the knife to score the edges where I wanted to bend the aluminum.

The rounded parts, I sanded off with my dremel.

Since the aluminum was scored, bending it was rather simple, but I knew I would only have one chance on bending it. If I needed to bend it back and forth, it would snap. Since this is a small detail, it does not bother me that the coin returns are scored on the back, as it is facing inside the droid, and no one will ever see it.

As you can see, the aluminum is clearly weakened where it is bent, but I plan on filling this with putty anyway, and it is not a piece that will be in any stress anyway.

Testing on the rounded piece… Yep, fits good!

All three coin return innards done. One for the front and two for the back!

The sides will simply be made slightly too large and glued on.

Once the sides are in place, time to glue the entire innards on the front plate and superglue them together.. and then add platy of tamaiya putty in order to really fix them together.

… now I know what you’re thinking….

I did not forget to actually cut out the square from the front plate!

This is the front coin return, all in aluminum. Check out how good it looks on the test fit on the body:

Sure, it has a few minor things that are not perfect, but this is R2 we’re talking about. He should be a bit dented up and not pristine clear. I will do some more sanding and filing later on, but I think it looks good on him =)

Finally, I had to do a comparison shot in-between my old styrene coin return and the new all aluminum one:

A small detail, really, and I have a lot more to fix this week, so why did I focus on redoing something I’ve already done?

Well, why not? =)

I needed to start to learn how to work with the aluminum parts I need to make anyway…

//Micke

By |2016-12-06T00:01:36+01:00March 26th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Modified Electronics and New Coin Returns

Battery POWER!

Since I’m suffering from inflamed thumb-muscles (no, not from spending too much time in front of my PS3, but rather from over-exhausting my hands at the gym), building (and pretty much anything else that requires .. well .. thumbs) has been quite slow.

I have, however been out and got myself a proper motorcycle battery for my droid. This heavy-duty baby weighs 6.2 kg (13.7 lbs), packs 12 Volts and has a massive 20 Ah, something that should keep my droid rolling for some time, I hope.

It fits like a glove inside the droid too!

I placed the battery in the front of the robot, since otherwise, it will be a bit back-heavy due to the aluminum dome and all. This may need repositioning, but I think I need to take it out for a few test drives first. I don’t want my droid to go face-planting on me!

I build (and glued in) a holder for the battery as well. With an added buckle on top, this battery will not go anywhere! Note the dramatic close-up…

I still need to add a fuse box into the robot, and especially now, with so much power in it, I don’t dare switching it on until I have it properly fused!

As if adding a battery wasn’t enough, I also started on building the battery boxes. Contrary to the name, these will not contain any batteries, even though they could, technically. These boxes was used in the original 2-legged version of R2-D2 for Kenny Baker to have his feet in. That and the foot shells.

Since my droid will be void of short people inside, it will however be a great place for my motors to extend into, and the cabling that goes up into the legs to have a place to hook up and be alone.

The battery boxes, consists basically of a box, with some added half-pipes on the ends.

First we build the box…

The cut-out is for easy access in the future. The holes in the back will be lined up with the cable channel and main leg mounting bolt.

Add some sides and half-circles to build up the strength… cut out some materials for the motor…

A little bit of sanding, skinning and a few more details, and this baby is ready to be installed. The holes are so the hoses leading in to the battery boxes will have a little extra room behind the knurled hose fittings, which will be placed in the extensions in the ends of the battery box.

This one has been measured and cut-out to match my foot shell already, and it really fits like a glove, eh?

This leaves the droid in the state that I really NEED to start working on the second foot shell, since I cannot complete the second battery box until this is done.

Once both foot shells and battery boxes are complete, it is just a matter of detailing on the body. And painting. And sanding the dome. And paint the dome panels. And drill holes in the dome. And find a way to mount the resin parts inside the body .. and .. and .. and .

Anyways, seems like the basic shape of the droid is nearing completion! 😀

By |2016-12-06T00:01:41+01:00March 12th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Battery POWER!
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