aluminium

Domeworks, part II

On the 9th of April, I posted a lot about how I was fixing up my dome for the first time.

I have, now and then put up posts of more work, but nothing has been as groundbreaking as what I’ve done lately!

A little while ago, I put up a post about cutting up the panels in the dome, well this is partly that, and partly what I’ve done with the opened panels..

First off, I’ve had a surveillance camera laying about for a while that I got from a friend of mine, Magnus Bodin, and I wanted to put this inside R2’s head, so we can actually see what he sees. An “R2-Cam”, if you will! =)

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So, the camera will go behind R2’s “radar eye”. For those of you not well versed in Astromech terminology, this is where it goes:

r2_eye

So, the place that looks like an eye, will literally become an eye. How imaginative!

First off, remove the surrounding blue aluminium radar eye housing, and expose the dome underneath. Please notice that I’ve added screws to the screw holes, since the dome is actually two domes inside each other, and I want to keep them as close to each other as possible when cutting through the almost 3 mm thick aluminium.

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I’ve tried to find the center of the circle as close as I can. In this case, it doesn’t matter if I’m not exact, as I have at least 5-6 mm on each side that I can be off, and it will still give more than enough opening inside the dome, yet still be totally invisible from the outside.

Let’s start with just using a punch to make a serious dent in this, so my drill can have something to cling on to!

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Ok … no turning back now!

One small hole, followed by a larger, followed by an even larger hole, to act as pilot hole for my hole saw.

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Yes, it is made for drilling in wood, but really, all I need is a serious enough groove in the aluminium…

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…. and a serious groove, that is!

Next up, bring out the trusty dremel and start cutting slices in a cross-wise fashion..

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No, that is not the death star laser. I had to pause here for a while, as my dremel was on the verge of burning up. White smoke emerged from within, and it did not smell good. Once all slices have been cut proper, I started with the outer layer, bent the pieces outwards and after bending back and forth, they snapped right off, as planned.

Next step was the inner layer. I used the dremel to cut along the edge, and bend the inner layer inwards back and forth until they snapped. Follow that up with a sanding disc, and you’re left with…

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A gaping hole! Fortunately it is in the exact right place. Funny enough, when cutting with the dremel, I took great care not to slip and accidentally score the surface of the dome. Why didn’t I take the same care when sanding the edges? my sanding disc slipped…. but not a big issue. Easy enough to sand that area and work away the rough pieces until I got a smooth surface again…

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This is just a test fit with the camera inside. Since the camera is booting up, you see the amber light surrounding the lens, but without that, it should be fairly invisible. However, since the lens is see-through, I did not want anyone to be able to see any of the LED’s on the inside of the head, or use the eye as a device to peek into the droid.

So, I needed a half-round object. Did not have anything at home that worked. I tried cutting up an old christmas ornament, but it was way too fragile (even though it was plastic) and I had to  make my own ..

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… made from duct tape. (No, I didn’t have any black duct tape at home, only the silver kind… so I spray painted the inside!

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Now, since the camera is light gray, I decided it was best to paint hat as well…

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A quick look at the mounting system inside, with the blocking shield in place…

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So a new look from the outside, looks like this:

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So much for the radar eye! What else can one do in a day? .. well .. time to work on getting the servos in place for the dome panels, of course!

After some trial and error I have determined that some of the hinges needs straightening up, and since they are only glued in place with E-6000, I can absolutely move them.

I have 3d printed a block of plastic with a curved surface that matches the inside curve of the dome, and I’ve super-glued them to my servos, and then used a very high bond tape (120 kg draw per meter) to stick these to the insides of the dome. At first I was a bit worried that they might not be enough, but after having to reposition them slightly, I am no longer worried. took me 5 minutes with the help of a scalpel to be able to pry one of the servos loose!

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So, servos in place … time to connect them to a small servo board…

(powered by an arduino), add a bit of test code…

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The end result? … well … check for yourself!

 

 

 

By |2016-12-06T00:00:28+01:00January 14th, 2014|R2-D2|Comments Off on Domeworks, part II

Fixing a hobbled droid, part II

So, once the shafts were drilled, it was time to play the waiting game.

I wanted the wheel hubs to sit firmly and not spin, but also retain the option of some day remove them, in need. Not saying it has to be easy, just … well .. possible! =)

In order to make sure the grub screws stayed inside the grooves in the motor axles, I ordered a bottle of this:

treadlock

Loctite Thread Locker! High Strength! High temperature! Now they should be really sticking in there!

But wait…. if I can’t get the motor hubs off .. what happens if the screws holding the motors (that are right underneath the big hubs) comes loose, I can’t fasten them… Better loctite them down as well! (medium strength thread locker this time around).

Hubs in place, sticking really hard. I almost completely destroyed a hex screw trying to (by force alone) unscrew a grub screw once set with the high strength thread locker. Not gonna happen.

Last step for the feet: screw the motor plates together, and also add a small holder for the bottom of the white insert.IMG_2705

 

 

OH, and before you ask: “Isn’t that James Short’s design on the motor holders?” Let me clear up this once and for all. It is not. Not one bit. In fact. James will see this for the very first time after these are posted, and invent a time machine, go back in time, and make a set that looks 99% identical, make a blueprint off them, and send them to my mailbox in the past, so it looks like he might have emailed me the plans for his, and then, based on those, I’ve made these, with just a tiny, minute difference (that he even will be so cleverly evil to put into his blog post about his motor holders that he should have done (again, posted in he past through time machine so it looks like it predates mine)).

I’ve also replaced the center wheel to the same type of wheel I had previously, as it lifted up the center foot better from the ground, and should work great with these wheels.

Step three of this, is to drill upp the holes in the styrene ankles. I suspect (well .. quite strongly, in fact, since I just drilled them freehand without any pillar drill or anything. Basically eyeballed it) that the holes through the ankles of my droid is not perfectly perpendicular to the surface they are in.

This might be why my droid is veering off to the left all the time when driving!

My solution for this is simple. The bolt going through the ankle is 8mm, I’ve got a 10mm metal tube inside the hole through the ankle to protect the styrene. I just need to firmly stick the ankle to something straight, drill a new, bigger hole in its place, make sure the plastic doesn’t try to veer off in any direction (Might even mix up a batch of styrene putty and pack tight into the ankle hole and let dry first, to make sure this doesn’t happen easily.), then insert a new metal insert into this bigger hole. That is another job for another day. I can do the prep job, but drilling the holes and making new inserts on a lathe is something my friend Anton will have to help me with.

By |2016-12-06T00:00:29+01:00January 14th, 2014|R2-D2|Comments Off on Fixing a hobbled droid, part II

I’m so close to the finish, I can smell it!

So, these last days of core building is nearing its end.

More and more small fixes are taken care of, and the droid is getting more and more finished!

Construction wise, all that is left is filing 3 pieces of metal for the foot strips, building two end caps for my ankle cylinder, and dress those in aluminium tape!

After that’s done.. well . I need to file down my battery box harnesses a bit, glue them in place, and also glue in the under shoulder details at my left leg!

Once those small things are done.. construction of “phase 1” as Valisk_61 put it… is finished!

Naturally, I’ll need to weather the legs and skirt..

So: What has happened since last time then?

[box type=”info”] I can’t believe it’s not aluminium![/box]

Wrapping aluminium tape around something, working hard with a glove (or you’ll cut yourself, I know) to smoothen it out, then finally sanding with 400 grit sand paper, gets you a pretty good looking solid aluminium look!

This is actually one of two resin ankle cylinders that I had, and these were used for my center foot, where they are so close that any minor discrepancy is a lot easier to notice! =)

Center foot construction is 100% complete!

I just need to add a bit of weathering to the cylinders and the wedges and it is a done deal!

The wedges are scratch built from styrene, if you wonder.

Here’s an example of one of my PVC/styrene ankle cylinders in action:

Looks fairly decent as well, I think!

My, after weathering the droid’s body and the center foot, the main foot and leg looks so plastic and fake without any grime! This cannot do!

Foot strips are also on the way.. I got pre-cut 3mm aluminium strips from the Mighty Sigge

[tm] (Thank you, much obliged!) and started to drill and file and all. Once done, it looks like quite an improvement from what I started with, or what do you think?

It takes a little while, but end results are really good! =)

Once this was done, it was time to reattach the hoses..

Now where do this one go? top or bottom hole, I can never remember..

There… All done!

There’s been more bits and pieces done today as well, small tidbits, painting of the second booster cover took place (Why don’t I paint them both at the same time to begin with?), built and painted the rest of the ankle wedges, mounted the ankle cylinders, the holders, well .. in fact, most things!

I did glue then ankle details in with E-6000. First I planned to use double stick tape for them, as it really seems to hold up well, but… why not. They’re not going to be removed anytime soon anyway =)

Stuff to do:

  • file 3 foot strips
  • attach foot strips
  • attach hoses on second foot
  • glue under shoulder details on second leg
  • weather both main legs
  • weather skirt
  • weather cylinders in main leg
  • double check wiring
  • charge battery
  • have fun!

So close.

SO close!

By |2016-12-06T00:00:47+01:00November 8th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on I’m so close to the finish, I can smell it!
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