3d-printing

Friction Welding to alter appearances

So, during this rather long and tedious 3D printing process to churn out parts for the BB-8, The 3D model has changed along the way, and as a result, some of my prints are no longer accurate.

I had a part of the “triangle” that holds the rounded panels together that changed recently, making 3 parts out of 6 obsolete.

IMG_9125

Now, these take a good 4 hours and some change to print, and I didn’t want to just waste 12+ hours on printing parts I didn’t need!

Looking at the specs, I realized that there is another part, that has the same basic construction as this (with overlaps and all) but does NOT have the groove that cuts out what is to be a panel in the finished full part.

Only thing I would need to do, is fill that groove that “splits” the part in two!

Sounds like a perfect job for some friction welding!

Friction welding, is really when you use friction to melt plastic together. I have used this on joints inside my R2, using round styrene rods that I put in my power drill, and then simply “drilled” until the plastic melted, and this created a very stable joint.

When doing this on a 3D print, I insert a piece of 1.75mm filament into my Dremel, and crank it up to about 80% speed, and gently push the quick rotating filament towards the area where I want to do the weld.

IMG_9126

As the quick rotating plastic melts, it also melts the surrounding plastic, making the new weld a part of the surrounding material.

First I did one softer go, to fill in as much of the groove as I can in one go..

IMG_9128

Then another go, that really pushes the materials inside, and also tried to erase the edges of the old groove, leaving a small extrusion of material after I am done.

IMG_9127

Now, this might not look pretty, but remember the plastic here is now part of the old print.

Using a break blade knife to first cut away some of the excess material, then using the same knife to scrape across the surface…

IMG_9133

.. and you end up with a groove that is totally gone.

Now, there are still some very small spots here and there, but compared to the layers of the print, they are nothing to worry about. Once I sand this part down properly and spray it with some spray filler, this will be completely invisible!

It only took about 4 minutes to do the three panels, and I saved up tons of time and filament compared to throwing the old pieces out and printing these from scratch!

By |2016-12-06T00:00:04+01:00October 7th, 2015|BB-8, Building|Comments Off on Friction Welding to alter appearances

R2 gets a mini-me!

During the sci-fi convention in September, I visited the booth where they do a full body 3D scan of you, then print it out on a laser sintering 3D printer with basically same capabilities as an Inkjet printer.

This means, that you do not only get a 3D model of whatever you scanned, but it is also printed out in colour!

About a week ago, I got the results.

So: without further ado: Have a look at my 3D printed clone of my very own R2-D2:

IMG_9100 IMG_9101

By |2016-12-06T00:00:05+01:00October 7th, 2015|3D Printing, R2-D2|Comments Off on R2 gets a mini-me!

3D Printer Upgrade: Cable Chains

For a while, I wanted to change out the cable braids on my MakerGear M2 for chains, and now the work has been started!

Firstly, I found this nice model on thingiverse, tosdjuenfs Cable Chain: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40124

I printed out a bunch of those, first to test my PET, worked great, but I wanted them black, so back to the old ABS.

To mount them to the M2, I found another nifty mod on thingiverse by rklosinski: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:151024.
Since I was not using a store bought chain, but rather my own, I downloaded the original Makergear part, and inspired by the thingiverse cable holder, I made my own version of it with a cable chain end point integrated.

I cut off part of the model in order to allow for this to be printed without supports, as well.

Screenshot 2015-09-12 20.32.14

Then I also needed to fasten the other end somehow. There is a very nice little hole near the edge where I’ve previously had a cable tie holding the Y axis cables in place. This was perfect for my needs. Now i just needed to draw and print a holder that was made for this task:

Screenshot 2015-09-12 20.22.09

Once I had printed enough links in the chain above, it was a simple matter to remove the braid and carefully thread the cables one by one (largest first) through the cable chain.
While doing this, I had them broken un into segments of 4 pieces, as this was easier to thread the cables through smaller segments.

There was one big 4MM bolt that helps holding the top plate to the steel frame that was a bit in the way, but I replaced this with a smaller screw that should normally be counter sunk, but it got the bolt low enough to allow the chain to pass over without issues.

Here’s the result of the Y-axis DONE!

IMG_8542
Now for fixing mounts for the heated bed and X-axis….

By |2016-12-06T00:00:06+01:00September 14th, 2015|3D Printing|Comments Off on 3D Printer Upgrade: Cable Chains
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