Paintjob

Ghostbusters Project: Prepping the shell and acrylic tip

The past couple of days have been slow work.

Yesterday, we had a terrorist attack in central Stockholm, and my fiancée and daughter were in town earlier that day at the hospital, and passed the area where the incident happened, but fortunately, that was some 30 minutes before the incident.

Had my fiancée decided to go shopping, something she considered, things might have been different.

But, I digress.

A while ago, I bought an acrylic tube for my proton gun online with the assumption that I could prepare and fix it myself. My theory was that I could easily sand off the tip myself, then mask off the areas on the tube that should be frosted, and work them over with sand paper.

I also picked up a few plastic funnels from a car shop, and rolled up a paper, marking what stuck out of the funnel.

Cut the area out from a piece of sand paper (by the way, a great way to sharpen your scissors!)…

… add some spray photo mount on the back…

Push a rod through to act as a guide for my power drill, and guide the acrylic tube…

… and I thought everything would be fine.

It wasn’t.

Turns out I can’t even superglue the sand paper to the funnel. It is absolutely THE worst type of plastic to glue anything to. When I did manage to get it to stick somewhat, I ran into another error. The wooden stick I used to fasten the funnel in my power drill was not long enough to go all the way through, so it scraped the inside of the acrylic tube.

The idea here was that I’d hold on the to the acrylic, while spinning the funnel with my power drill, and gently pushing the acrylic towards it, sanding off the tip at 45 degrees. It kinda worked…. but it was a good thing my acrylic was a tad longer than I needed. Time to saw it off and try again!

One thing I felt a lot better on, was my continued work at prepping the shell.

Last week I straightened out the ribs where the V-hook will be mounted, using wooden sticks and two component epoxy putty, an idea I blatantly nicked from GohstTarp’s build.

I didn’t snap a good “before” picture, but… let’s just say that I had a good 3 mm to fill in the middle, plus some air bubble towards the bottom of one fin, and a lot of sanding.

This is the result after using wood sticks as guide to get a straight line, and I have just pushed the wood putty on to the crooked ribs.

Once dried, it was sanding galore. I brought out my small mouse sander and went crazy. This was the result:

These ribs are really straight now! *yay*

You can see in the curvature how much it was crooked, and one of them had an air bubble that I later filled.

Then up to today: I thought I’d run the shell over with some paint while I had the time. The proton pack should be black, as you know, and the fiber glass shell I have, was grey.

I had cut up a few holes needed, and also sanded off a few places on the shell, and really wanted to see how it looked when painted.

Having learned my lesson in the past when it comes to spray paint, the key is to build the paint up in thin layers that are set to dry in between.

After going over it 3-4 times, I was left with this:

I noted that the paint did the scratches made when positioning the N-filter became even more prominent, and some of the artefacts from the moulding was also more visible than I’d like. I know the proton pack surface (the base part) should have a bit of texture to it, but I have bought a special paint for that, to get it the hammered look.

Anyway, I decided more work was needed on this, so I went ahead and covered the proton pack again with some spray can body filler. Ironically, it is grey.. So i painted my grey pack black, so I could paint it grey again…

The only thing that stayed black for now was the N-filter.

Here’s the pack with my grey body filler in it:

I spent about half an hour sanding on it in the late evening, but as the light was so bad, I couldn’t get a good picture of it. I’ll continue sanding tomorrow when some of the extra filler I added after another air bubble showed its face, and I’ll go over the pack with a better grade sand paper. Maybe even wet sand it in the bath tub.

By |2017-04-08T23:48:17+02:00April 8th, 2017|Building, Costuming, Ghostbusters, Ghostbusters Proton Pack|Comments Off on Ghostbusters Project: Prepping the shell and acrylic tip

Why 3d printing IS a good tool when making props… if done correctly.

I must say that after a long hiatus, it feels good to be back to doing some actual building again.

The break was, of course, due to my daughters health, and even though the path to get her well again is long and uncertain, We still need to find these things in our lives that gives us strength, that gives us peace of mind and the energy to move on through these dark times.

For me, that meant taking on another project. I’m going to be a Ghostbuster!

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(Costume still in progress)

Ever since I was 11 years old and went with my father to see this movie back in 1984, there’s been something about it that I’ve always cherished and held dear to me. A few years back I was happy to borrow a uniform and proton pack for the annual Sci-Fi convention in Stockholm and it was nothing short of awesome. Time to make my own!

The picture above is a work in progress of the costume. I am still awaiting arrival of my belt, but the rest of the gadgets that go on the suit have arrived… I just haven’t pictured them yet!

But, I digress. Apart from drawing and printing the hose connector (grey thing that holds the yellow hose) on the uniform, I’ve started to draw and print some of the things that go on the proton pack and gun… not to mention the fully 3d printed trap …

On the proton pack, I need to have what’s known as a Clippard Valve. I decided to make one on my printer. First off: time for some cad:

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First print off the bed was not as smooth as I wanted, due to some of my export settings not being fine tuned enough for the circular top. I exported and printed a second one that was slightly smoother, but kept this for reference. It is a good reference of what a raw 3d print looks like, even when printed in good quality.

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What I don’t get is this: Many people that 3d print parts for costumes or gadgets never put in enough work with sanding and polishing the 3d prints, making them looking not good enough!

This is not going to happen with my Clippard!

I started off by sanding off the biggest irregularities, getting it fairly smooth, then a coating of spray filler … then sanding again to get it smooth.

A few places (most notably the top of the thumbscrew on the valve) was also hit with a few coats of Tamaiya Putty, to remove the print lines. Again, sanded away most of it, to get a smooth finish.

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Once sanding was done, I painted everything black. Two quick coats did the trick.

Although it is cold and freezing outside, I still painted them quickly and then used my fiancées hair drier to harden the paint just enough so I could bring them inside without smelling the place up.

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I then masked the top portion away and clear coated the majority of the body of the valve.

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My plan was to use Silver Leaf Rub and Buff for the metal part of the top of the valve, and as experience have shown me, this does not stick well on clear coated surfaces, but on raw painted surfaces, it fit just great! I also treated the top screw with Rub and Buff.

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Once that was finished, all that was left was to add a metal sticker on top of it, to create my finished valve. Please note that in the pic below are two different types of valves, so they should look slightly different. The one on the left was my 3d printed version.

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And … as a final comparison, here are the final result compared to the 3d printed raw print. The knurling on the screw could be slightly better, but it is only really visible when being very close to the valve, and I am giving you the full horror here…

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All in all, I am happy with the results, and this baby weighs just a few grams as opposed to the original, which ways about 100 times more. Every gram counts when you wear it on your back!

I will be back shortly with more about this new exciting project!

cheers,

Micke

By |2016-12-06T00:44:35+01:00December 6th, 2016|Ghostbusters|Comments Off on Why 3d printing IS a good tool when making props… if done correctly.

BB-8 progress

Time for another update on my BB-8!

Things have been going well, and this week I printed the last pieces for the body:

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In all, that makes quite a large stack of pieces that I need to go through and sand and treat and all that..

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More importantly, I started experimenting with the weathering. First take a look at my kickass weathering mount setup!

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Once I had this on the inflatable ball, weathering was fun and easy. I must say this is a process I really do enjoy.

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This was only a test with water colours, soon the real weathering will follow, this time with acrylics!

In addition to this milestone, I also got around to making a new PSI, since I lost my old one. Putting it all together looks really nice too!

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Stay tuned… =)

 

By |2016-12-06T00:00:03+01:00October 20th, 2015|BB-8, Building|Comments Off on BB-8 progress
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