construction

Evening Post

Fourth blog entry in one day! I must be nuts!

(well… I *am* building an R2-D2..)

All of them are dealing with different aspects and different parts of the build!

First off, I fixed two things that was on the R2-2DO list that I had just been to lazy to fix: I added the ridges to the second horseshoe, and covered the second horseshoe shim in aluminium, to get that of the list.

I was then contemplating drilling larger holes for the dome ring, and have the dome ring resting not on screws but on larger knobs. This would make removing and replacing the dome much easier!

I took off the rockler bearing from the droid, and at the same time, I drilled holes for the screws in the rockler on my secondary golden dome!

Rockler was mounted again, this time I made sure it was all level, then on with the work!

I glued on magnets on the inside of the “Kenny-Panel”, and glued on small metal shims to the corners of the panel. I took the old inside from the front panel, cut it slightly to make it fit, and fit it inside the Kenny-Panel for powering the droid on and off.

The panel is right now hanging on magnets alone, but I’m going to hinge it tomorrow, to make sure it does NOT fall off! =)

Speaking of hinging: I did hinge the front large door, currently attached with CA glue, but that works just fine for now. I even added a small magnet lock to the door. At the moment I think it is too strong, but I will find a better option shortly.

I even tested it with the restraining bolt, and it works like a charm!

Originally, the bolt was meant to be higher, but I realized I had to turn the door upside down (looks the same both ways) for a better fit, so I’ll have to live with the mount point for the restraining bolt to be slightly lower than I first had counted on. Maybe this was put on by a particularly short jawa!

I also took out the main battery and the electronics board since I need to reroute most of the spider web that are cables inside the droid. I did purchase a few things to make it neater, I just need to work on the cabling a bit!

I will also need to find a better socket to attach to the electronics board. At the moment, it is all individual cables that are just attached to each other. One big connector would be a lot better!

Won’t be too hard either… At the moment, I think I’ll need like 10 channels connecting to the board…. maybe.

By |2016-12-06T00:01:20+01:00September 17th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Evening Post

My R2 is now signed by Kenny Baker!

So, since Sigge The Great

[tm] brought back an aluminium panel for the back of the R2 form Celebration VI, signed by Kenny Baker himself, it was time to get rid of the old back panel that was essentially styrene, covered in aluminium tape.

The aluminium tape has a record of when warm, warp a little and also easily scratched.

It has served me well in the past, but it was time to make it proper… and get a little bit of Kenny inside my R2!

First, I totally managed to mess up the door panel surrounds. I got a piece of metal by Sigge meant for this, with holes predrilled and the aluminium scored. It should have been an easy job to saw through, but I made a mess of it. I managed to get it crooked on the “wrong side” of the line at one place, and that would require a lot of filing work in order to fix.

However, that was not the worst issue. When it started to look good, I managed to forget that the inner corners was supposed to be rounded, and had managed to file one of them almost square when I realized my mistake!

As you see, a little bit crooked, and the bottom right corner filed straight… *ouch* !

Fortunately, I had a piece of 0.8 mm aluminium, and I quickly made up a new surround. The 0.2 mm difference in thickness won’t be seen, but it was a major difference when sawing through it, as it was really soft!

This time around, I went into a different approach. I drilled the holes for the corners, scored the aluminium deeply, and then simply sawed in the middle, allowing me to bend and snap out the pieces, leaving the sides totally straight with only minor filing to do!

The lines were scored on the other side, and with the ruled locking the thin surround in place, I managed to gently bend and snap off the scrap pieces.

Almost there.. (stay on target…)

Once the pieces were snapped off, it was a simple task to file the edges smooth.

Next: time to glue the surrounds to the back plate!

I let my small plastic jaws stay on for a couple of minutes to let my fast drying CA glue time to set before moving on to the next side..

Sigge not only got me the autograph, he also engraved the name and the symbol for Industrial Automaton on my back plate!

After it was glued in place, I sanded the entire back plate and surrounds until I was happy with the finish, then applied some floor polish in order to stop it from getting greasemarks from small fingers.

Looks good, don’t you think?

Here’s a comparison shot before I started to remove my old faked metal back panel..

I know, I know… It is probably one of those things that no one would notice but me, but hey! It’s ALL in the details!

After removing the old surrounds and the aluminium tape, I cleaned off the glue remains and cut open the back inner skin. One of the frame rings inside, supporting the constructions went through the top 3 centimeters of the hold I made, and I decided to cut away this portion of the frame, in order to make proper space for the new inside to this “secret” openable panel.

However, as I do not want to make my droid unstable, I made a new portion of frame ring that I glued right where the inner skin begins, and also secured the new piece from above with some extra pieces.

This rather dark look from the inside should be enough to hold the frame together. I may add a second piece later on, just to make sure.

Blurry and unfocused, but hey.. that just matches how I felt when building today!

I added two extra pieces on top of the new piece, just to give the frame supports something extra to hold on to.

This is a show of the new unpainted back panel in place. I still haven’t added anything that holds it in lace yet, but that will most likely be magnets. At the moment, it is just held in place with a little bit of tape from the inside.

A small step for my droid, but a giant… oh heck. Not even gonna try and paraphrase that now!

I didn’t really need to do this, in order to get the droid finished, since the old panel would have worked, but it felt great to change it and add a real piece of aluminium on the droid instead!

By |2016-12-06T00:01:23+01:00September 16th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on My R2 is now signed by Kenny Baker!

The list of things to come…

So, even though my droid is starting to look pretty finished when it comes to construction, there is definitely a number of things that still needs to be fixed!

I’ve taken the liberty to create a “TODO” list.. or a R2-2DO list, as it were…

R2-2DO:
=======
Shoulders:

  • Fix ridges in second horseshoe
  • Finetune second shoulder shim
  • Dress second shim edges in aluminium tape
  • Prime second horseshoe
  • Fix small things that WILL be showing up after priming with Tamaiya Putty and sand
  • Skin second shoulder hub in aluminium

R2-D2 Dome:

  • Cut open dome under blank panel for easy access (thanks Edwardo)
  • Dremel out Aluminium PSI holder (front) for fitting of Teeces PSI.
  • Insulate Teeces PSI properly
  • Sand painted (primed blue) panels
  • Paint painted panels in proper colour!

Body:

  • Cut out side vents
  • Cut out pocket vents
  • paint pocket/side vents (blue)
  • Fix/adjust long doors on front to add another layer for stability.
  • Work on hinging doors on styrene frame
  • Make Charging Bay Insert
  • Make inside of “large door” on front.
  • Alter back unpainted panel to act as door for switching droid on and off (thanks Sigge)
  • Make unpainted panel door insert
  • Prime body and bondo/sand accordingly
  • sand/paint blue panel
  • sand/paint utility arms
  • mount utility arms properly (currently only stuck in place with velcro)
  • find aluminium power couplers!
  • paint octagon ports (blue)
  • paint coin slots (blue)

Skirt:

  • Bondo skirt properly
  • Prime skirt
  • bondo/sand as needed

Center Foot:

  • Cut out wooden thick shim for center foot, to raise droid slightly.
  • Attach wooden thick shim to frame (under skirt)
  • Add magnet holders to foot plates in order to stick them more firm onto the foot
  • Fix 3mm alu strips

Main Feet:

  • Skin “ridge” in both feet for better look
  • Prime and bondo right foot
  • Attach styrene pieces on inside foot shells for KHF’s to screw in to better.
  • Fix 3mm alu strips

Legs:

  • Insert metal tube in pivot point/mount on ankle
  • Add steel mount for magnetized shoulder hubs
  • Possibly sand holder for new, alu shoulder hubs for perfect fit
  • Fix/remake Ankle Cylinders
  • Fix Mount for Ankle Cylinders
  • Fix Mount for Ankle Wedges
  • Fix Mount for Ankle Cylinder Holders
  • Paint Ankle Cylinders
  • Paint Ankle Wedges
  • Prime Ankle Cylinder Holders
  • Prime legs
  • Bondo/sand as needed.

PAINT THE WHITES! *woohoo*
Weather and enjoy a complete droid!

Future Work:
Dome:

  • Sand top part of split inner dome further for better fit
  • Cut inner dome pie panels for Life Support Scanner and Periscope

Secondary Dome:

  • Fix faulty FLD.
  • Cut holes for FLD, RLD
  • Drill holes for PSI and HP’s
  • Mount HP’s
  • Mount PSI’s
  • Mount FLD&RLD
  • Find and drill holes for rockler mount
  • Mask for blue panels
  • prime and paint blue panels
  • Fix unique sound scheme for secondary identity!
By |2016-12-06T00:01:25+01:00September 14th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on The list of things to come…
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