skins

My R2 is now signed by Kenny Baker!

So, since Sigge The Great

[tm] brought back an aluminium panel for the back of the R2 form Celebration VI, signed by Kenny Baker himself, it was time to get rid of the old back panel that was essentially styrene, covered in aluminium tape.

The aluminium tape has a record of when warm, warp a little and also easily scratched.

It has served me well in the past, but it was time to make it proper… and get a little bit of Kenny inside my R2!

First, I totally managed to mess up the door panel surrounds. I got a piece of metal by Sigge meant for this, with holes predrilled and the aluminium scored. It should have been an easy job to saw through, but I made a mess of it. I managed to get it crooked on the “wrong side” of the line at one place, and that would require a lot of filing work in order to fix.

However, that was not the worst issue. When it started to look good, I managed to forget that the inner corners was supposed to be rounded, and had managed to file one of them almost square when I realized my mistake!

As you see, a little bit crooked, and the bottom right corner filed straight… *ouch* !

Fortunately, I had a piece of 0.8 mm aluminium, and I quickly made up a new surround. The 0.2 mm difference in thickness won’t be seen, but it was a major difference when sawing through it, as it was really soft!

This time around, I went into a different approach. I drilled the holes for the corners, scored the aluminium deeply, and then simply sawed in the middle, allowing me to bend and snap out the pieces, leaving the sides totally straight with only minor filing to do!

The lines were scored on the other side, and with the ruled locking the thin surround in place, I managed to gently bend and snap off the scrap pieces.

Almost there.. (stay on target…)

Once the pieces were snapped off, it was a simple task to file the edges smooth.

Next: time to glue the surrounds to the back plate!

I let my small plastic jaws stay on for a couple of minutes to let my fast drying CA glue time to set before moving on to the next side..

Sigge not only got me the autograph, he also engraved the name and the symbol for Industrial Automaton on my back plate!

After it was glued in place, I sanded the entire back plate and surrounds until I was happy with the finish, then applied some floor polish in order to stop it from getting greasemarks from small fingers.

Looks good, don’t you think?

Here’s a comparison shot before I started to remove my old faked metal back panel..

I know, I know… It is probably one of those things that no one would notice but me, but hey! It’s ALL in the details!

After removing the old surrounds and the aluminium tape, I cleaned off the glue remains and cut open the back inner skin. One of the frame rings inside, supporting the constructions went through the top 3 centimeters of the hold I made, and I decided to cut away this portion of the frame, in order to make proper space for the new inside to this “secret” openable panel.

However, as I do not want to make my droid unstable, I made a new portion of frame ring that I glued right where the inner skin begins, and also secured the new piece from above with some extra pieces.

This rather dark look from the inside should be enough to hold the frame together. I may add a second piece later on, just to make sure.

Blurry and unfocused, but hey.. that just matches how I felt when building today!

I added two extra pieces on top of the new piece, just to give the frame supports something extra to hold on to.

This is a show of the new unpainted back panel in place. I still haven’t added anything that holds it in lace yet, but that will most likely be magnets. At the moment, it is just held in place with a little bit of tape from the inside.

A small step for my droid, but a giant… oh heck. Not even gonna try and paraphrase that now!

I didn’t really need to do this, in order to get the droid finished, since the old panel would have worked, but it felt great to change it and add a real piece of aluminium on the droid instead!

By |2016-12-06T00:01:23+01:00September 16th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on My R2 is now signed by Kenny Baker!

The list of things to come…

So, even though my droid is starting to look pretty finished when it comes to construction, there is definitely a number of things that still needs to be fixed!

I’ve taken the liberty to create a “TODO” list.. or a R2-2DO list, as it were…

R2-2DO:
=======
Shoulders:

  • Fix ridges in second horseshoe
  • Finetune second shoulder shim
  • Dress second shim edges in aluminium tape
  • Prime second horseshoe
  • Fix small things that WILL be showing up after priming with Tamaiya Putty and sand
  • Skin second shoulder hub in aluminium

R2-D2 Dome:

  • Cut open dome under blank panel for easy access (thanks Edwardo)
  • Dremel out Aluminium PSI holder (front) for fitting of Teeces PSI.
  • Insulate Teeces PSI properly
  • Sand painted (primed blue) panels
  • Paint painted panels in proper colour!

Body:

  • Cut out side vents
  • Cut out pocket vents
  • paint pocket/side vents (blue)
  • Fix/adjust long doors on front to add another layer for stability.
  • Work on hinging doors on styrene frame
  • Make Charging Bay Insert
  • Make inside of “large door” on front.
  • Alter back unpainted panel to act as door for switching droid on and off (thanks Sigge)
  • Make unpainted panel door insert
  • Prime body and bondo/sand accordingly
  • sand/paint blue panel
  • sand/paint utility arms
  • mount utility arms properly (currently only stuck in place with velcro)
  • find aluminium power couplers!
  • paint octagon ports (blue)
  • paint coin slots (blue)

Skirt:

  • Bondo skirt properly
  • Prime skirt
  • bondo/sand as needed

Center Foot:

  • Cut out wooden thick shim for center foot, to raise droid slightly.
  • Attach wooden thick shim to frame (under skirt)
  • Add magnet holders to foot plates in order to stick them more firm onto the foot
  • Fix 3mm alu strips

Main Feet:

  • Skin “ridge” in both feet for better look
  • Prime and bondo right foot
  • Attach styrene pieces on inside foot shells for KHF’s to screw in to better.
  • Fix 3mm alu strips

Legs:

  • Insert metal tube in pivot point/mount on ankle
  • Add steel mount for magnetized shoulder hubs
  • Possibly sand holder for new, alu shoulder hubs for perfect fit
  • Fix/remake Ankle Cylinders
  • Fix Mount for Ankle Cylinders
  • Fix Mount for Ankle Wedges
  • Fix Mount for Ankle Cylinder Holders
  • Paint Ankle Cylinders
  • Paint Ankle Wedges
  • Prime Ankle Cylinder Holders
  • Prime legs
  • Bondo/sand as needed.

PAINT THE WHITES! *woohoo*
Weather and enjoy a complete droid!

Future Work:
Dome:

  • Sand top part of split inner dome further for better fit
  • Cut inner dome pie panels for Life Support Scanner and Periscope

Secondary Dome:

  • Fix faulty FLD.
  • Cut holes for FLD, RLD
  • Drill holes for PSI and HP’s
  • Mount HP’s
  • Mount PSI’s
  • Mount FLD&RLD
  • Find and drill holes for rockler mount
  • Mask for blue panels
  • prime and paint blue panels
  • Fix unique sound scheme for secondary identity!
By |2016-12-06T00:01:25+01:00September 14th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on The list of things to come…

Fixing the rockler bearing and more body work..

Will this never end..?

Today, I have suffered from a gigantic cold, but managed to crawl out of bed around lunchtime and did some work on the droid!

First off, I took my Lee Valley Rockler Bearing, and decided to clean it up to get it to spin better. It did spin fairly ok, I thought, but never more than maximum 3/4 of a lap when I spin it around.

So, I emptied the bearing out from all metal balls, dried up the groves from grease, actually cleaned them up with dishwashing liquid before going over them with my dremel and a steel brush.

Once complete, I replaced all the metal bearing with acetal self-lubricating bearings and added a touch of silicone grease for good measure.

The result? … well … look at this!

So, after the rockler done, The rest of the day has been spent with doing a little tidbit here and there. Mostly, this has been fixing small issues, and I also continued in cleaning up the hatch edges, and gluing them in place.

I also cut up a resin power coupled and did a temporary mount of the front one, just to check..

Starting to look pretty good, I think.

I also sanded the aluminum coin return slightly, to get away from the silvery shine..

On the backside, I also played around with the aluminum tape to see if I could do something about the famed unpainted panel…

For the more observant of you, you may realize that tiny R2 is not featured in any of these images.

As it turns out, he’s really sad.

Tiny R2 needs a hug.

By |2016-12-06T00:01:48+01:00February 21st, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Fixing the rockler bearing and more body work..
Go to Top