R2-D2

All things related to R2-D2

Monday morning lobotomy

Fueled by colder weather and the signed Kenny Baker panel in my droid, I decided it was lobotomy time!

This is yet another of those posts where the build has not really progressed… visually, but functionally!

Inspired by Edwardo, I decided to cut open the area behind my unpainted dome panel, for easier access to hooking and unhooking my slip ring connector board. Prior to doing this, I had to balance the dome halfway on its side while inserting the dable that gives the dome power. Nore than once I have been close to dropping or scratching my dome, and even though it would be considered “genuine weathering“, I strongly opted against this!

Step one was to pry loose the unpainted panel. As I’ve only fastened my panels with some tesa carpet tape (works fine, by the way) this was relatively easy…

I used a plastic butterknife to do so, to avoid scratching…

Second: Using the old and tested pen-and-washer method, I outlined the area I needed to cut…

Then, I taped along the lines where I was going to cut with painters tape and took out my trusty dremel…

First cut is always the scariest… after this there was no turning back!

I had planned to only cut through with my dremel, and then use the same saw I used when cutting the dome to cut open the panel, but I felt like taking a walk on the wild side, so I dremeled out the entire panel!

One small slip, made a small mark that I managed to sand over, so no biggie…

When using a dremel, I strongly recommend a facemask. Earplus ang protective goggles is a MUST when dremeling through the dome! Noisy and tiny metal splinters everywhere! Also, I recommend using the thicker cutting wheels with quick release. These do not shatter like the thin standard wheels and are much more suited for cutting through say.. a dome!

(I also like the way the quick release edge sort of looks like the bat signal…)

Once cut all the straight edges, I finished up by cutting the edges with a metal saw blade.

The inner dome panel is gently removed, as I will use this when hinging the door, and we can get a nice look at R2’s brain…

Then, time to file and sand. Make all the edges smooth…. time to pop off the head and add some hinges!

I’m using a JAG hinge for the panel, and at this moment, it is only superglued into place. After the first time it breaks off, I will replace the superglue with milliput, which should hold it in place forever! =)

Turn the head around, and tape the small insert from the inner dome that I cut out previously, and superglued that one as well. (no pic here, sorry)

lastly, I put on new, fresh strips of the carpet tape on the outer panel and taped that in to position, (with protective paper on one side still), turned the dome around and removed the paper and pressed the inner dome panel down to the outer dome panel from the inside.

It sounds more complicated than it was, trust me!

R2 got his head returned, and the final result looks … well just like before!

.. only this time, I can open up the panel..

… and easily reach in to do whatever I need to do in there!

I may need to add a magnet to close this up properly, but I’ll have to see it in action properly first, with R2 on his 3 legs and moving the head about, but that should be no problems! =)

Not bad for a monday morning!

By |2016-12-06T00:01:22+01:00September 17th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Monday morning lobotomy

My R2 is now signed by Kenny Baker!

So, since Sigge The Great

[tm] brought back an aluminium panel for the back of the R2 form Celebration VI, signed by Kenny Baker himself, it was time to get rid of the old back panel that was essentially styrene, covered in aluminium tape.

The aluminium tape has a record of when warm, warp a little and also easily scratched.

It has served me well in the past, but it was time to make it proper… and get a little bit of Kenny inside my R2!

First, I totally managed to mess up the door panel surrounds. I got a piece of metal by Sigge meant for this, with holes predrilled and the aluminium scored. It should have been an easy job to saw through, but I made a mess of it. I managed to get it crooked on the “wrong side” of the line at one place, and that would require a lot of filing work in order to fix.

However, that was not the worst issue. When it started to look good, I managed to forget that the inner corners was supposed to be rounded, and had managed to file one of them almost square when I realized my mistake!

As you see, a little bit crooked, and the bottom right corner filed straight… *ouch* !

Fortunately, I had a piece of 0.8 mm aluminium, and I quickly made up a new surround. The 0.2 mm difference in thickness won’t be seen, but it was a major difference when sawing through it, as it was really soft!

This time around, I went into a different approach. I drilled the holes for the corners, scored the aluminium deeply, and then simply sawed in the middle, allowing me to bend and snap out the pieces, leaving the sides totally straight with only minor filing to do!

The lines were scored on the other side, and with the ruled locking the thin surround in place, I managed to gently bend and snap off the scrap pieces.

Almost there.. (stay on target…)

Once the pieces were snapped off, it was a simple task to file the edges smooth.

Next: time to glue the surrounds to the back plate!

I let my small plastic jaws stay on for a couple of minutes to let my fast drying CA glue time to set before moving on to the next side..

Sigge not only got me the autograph, he also engraved the name and the symbol for Industrial Automaton on my back plate!

After it was glued in place, I sanded the entire back plate and surrounds until I was happy with the finish, then applied some floor polish in order to stop it from getting greasemarks from small fingers.

Looks good, don’t you think?

Here’s a comparison shot before I started to remove my old faked metal back panel..

I know, I know… It is probably one of those things that no one would notice but me, but hey! It’s ALL in the details!

After removing the old surrounds and the aluminium tape, I cleaned off the glue remains and cut open the back inner skin. One of the frame rings inside, supporting the constructions went through the top 3 centimeters of the hold I made, and I decided to cut away this portion of the frame, in order to make proper space for the new inside to this “secret” openable panel.

However, as I do not want to make my droid unstable, I made a new portion of frame ring that I glued right where the inner skin begins, and also secured the new piece from above with some extra pieces.

This rather dark look from the inside should be enough to hold the frame together. I may add a second piece later on, just to make sure.

Blurry and unfocused, but hey.. that just matches how I felt when building today!

I added two extra pieces on top of the new piece, just to give the frame supports something extra to hold on to.

This is a show of the new unpainted back panel in place. I still haven’t added anything that holds it in lace yet, but that will most likely be magnets. At the moment, it is just held in place with a little bit of tape from the inside.

A small step for my droid, but a giant… oh heck. Not even gonna try and paraphrase that now!

I didn’t really need to do this, in order to get the droid finished, since the old panel would have worked, but it felt great to change it and add a real piece of aluminium on the droid instead!

By |2016-12-06T00:01:23+01:00September 16th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on My R2 is now signed by Kenny Baker!

Hollywood Memories…

When I spent a week in Hollywood, I just had to go to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre and see the footprints of the “real” R2-D2 …

So … the droid used for this obviously had a two wheel drive in each foot and what looks like two round casters in the front foot.

My droid have a very different drive train, but works all the same! =)

By |2016-12-06T00:01:24+01:00September 16th, 2012|R2-D2|Comments Off on Hollywood Memories…
Go to Top