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Ghostbusters Project: Prepping the shell and acrylic tip

The past couple of days have been slow work.

Yesterday, we had a terrorist attack in central Stockholm, and my fiancée and daughter were in town earlier that day at the hospital, and passed the area where the incident happened, but fortunately, that was some 30 minutes before the incident.

Had my fiancée decided to go shopping, something she considered, things might have been different.

But, I digress.

A while ago, I bought an acrylic tube for my proton gun online with the assumption that I could prepare and fix it myself. My theory was that I could easily sand off the tip myself, then mask off the areas on the tube that should be frosted, and work them over with sand paper.

I also picked up a few plastic funnels from a car shop, and rolled up a paper, marking what stuck out of the funnel.

Cut the area out from a piece of sand paper (by the way, a great way to sharpen your scissors!)…

… add some spray photo mount on the back…

Push a rod through to act as a guide for my power drill, and guide the acrylic tube…

… and I thought everything would be fine.

It wasn’t.

Turns out I can’t even superglue the sand paper to the funnel. It is absolutely THE worst type of plastic to glue anything to. When I did manage to get it to stick somewhat, I ran into another error. The wooden stick I used to fasten the funnel in my power drill was not long enough to go all the way through, so it scraped the inside of the acrylic tube.

The idea here was that I’d hold on the to the acrylic, while spinning the funnel with my power drill, and gently pushing the acrylic towards it, sanding off the tip at 45 degrees. It kinda worked…. but it was a good thing my acrylic was a tad longer than I needed. Time to saw it off and try again!

One thing I felt a lot better on, was my continued work at prepping the shell.

Last week I straightened out the ribs where the V-hook will be mounted, using wooden sticks and two component epoxy putty, an idea I blatantly nicked from GohstTarp’s build.

I didn’t snap a good “before” picture, but… let’s just say that I had a good 3 mm to fill in the middle, plus some air bubble towards the bottom of one fin, and a lot of sanding.

This is the result after using wood sticks as guide to get a straight line, and I have just pushed the wood putty on to the crooked ribs.

Once dried, it was sanding galore. I brought out my small mouse sander and went crazy. This was the result:

These ribs are really straight now! *yay*

You can see in the curvature how much it was crooked, and one of them had an air bubble that I later filled.

Then up to today: I thought I’d run the shell over with some paint while I had the time. The proton pack should be black, as you know, and the fiber glass shell I have, was grey.

I had cut up a few holes needed, and also sanded off a few places on the shell, and really wanted to see how it looked when painted.

Having learned my lesson in the past when it comes to spray paint, the key is to build the paint up in thin layers that are set to dry in between.

After going over it 3-4 times, I was left with this:

I noted that the paint did the scratches made when positioning the N-filter became even more prominent, and some of the artefacts from the moulding was also more visible than I’d like. I know the proton pack surface (the base part) should have a bit of texture to it, but I have bought a special paint for that, to get it the hammered look.

Anyway, I decided more work was needed on this, so I went ahead and covered the proton pack again with some spray can body filler. Ironically, it is grey.. So i painted my grey pack black, so I could paint it grey again…

The only thing that stayed black for now was the N-filter.

Here’s the pack with my grey body filler in it:

I spent about half an hour sanding on it in the late evening, but as the light was so bad, I couldn’t get a good picture of it. I’ll continue sanding tomorrow when some of the extra filler I added after another air bubble showed its face, and I’ll go over the pack with a better grade sand paper. Maybe even wet sand it in the bath tub.

By | 2017-04-08T23:48:17+00:00 April 8th, 2017|Building, Costuming, Ghostbusters, Ghostbusters Proton Pack|Comments Off on Ghostbusters Project: Prepping the shell and acrylic tip

Ghostbusters Project: Another charging plate!

Just a quick update: I made a new charging plate and also picked up the DPDT switches from the local electronics store.

I am still waiting for the panel mount charging plugs, and as soon as those arrive, these two are fully finished! =)

By | 2017-03-31T19:15:13+00:00 March 31st, 2017|Building, Costuming, Ghostbusters, Ghostbusters Proton Pack|Comments Off on Ghostbusters Project: Another charging plate!

Ghostbusters Project: Making the charging plate

What? Another update on the same evening? Yup!

When I was looking through the packages that had arrived the past week, I found that I had my B4m Switchcraft connectors that I had put to the side and almost forgot about.

So, armed with those (got charging plugs and toggle switches on the way) I decided to start working on my charging plate for my Proton Pack.

I have already decided to go with the “Spengler version”, so the Spengler charging plate it is!

I found a sales thread on the forum that had a pretty clear image of this, and knowing the size of the Switchcraft connector, I estimated the size of the plate itself to be 4 cm high by 10 cm long. In addition to this, there is also an angled plate that is riveted against the larger plate. Not having any proper metal working tools, I had no idea ho to do this one yet. More on that later.

So, I quickly drew something in my CAD program, exported to an image file and printed out the pattern on self-adhesing labels, and stuck these on some 0.8mm aluminium plate I had laying about from other projects.

Cutting these out is easy. I simply use score and snap, but hen it comes to aluminium, I need to score a lot, deep and hard with my break blade knife. Once I can see a hint of the cut on the back side, I can simply push down on a flat surface at an angle, and the piece will bend right where I scored it. Bending back and forth a few times and I have a perfect cut! Works every time!

Next step is to use my metal awl punch and mark out those holes and start drilling. The Switchcraft connector needs about 20mm hole to fit through, the charging plug 8mm, and the switch that I plan on using, 6mm.

So, the hole did not get 100% centered. I drilled it holding it in my hand with a step drill, so not very surprised. However, it is not as bad as it seems, and in the end, you won’t be able to tell the difference anyway.

Once the holes were done (I had to make the large hole even larger when test fitting), off to wet sand both front and back side to make that nice, brushed aluminium look.

Compare this to the raw metal in the background!

Next step was to make the small angled plate that would be riveted to this. Same procedure here. Cut with score and snap, then drill time.

Once it was cut out and drilled, I had to make a 90 degree straight bend somehow. I ended up fixing the metal to a piece of wood with a teel ruler and clamped it down heavily. I then gently starting pushing down towards the wood in order to make the portruding part bend. Once I had a bend at a big angle enough, I simply put the piece of wood with the clamped down piece and pushed it straight down at a 90 degree angle. Worked like a charm!

Next up: wet sanding…

And then time for the final step: Riveting the plates together. I had not drilled the rivet holes in my bigger plate up until now just to make sure they’d align, but they aligned well, so I drilled and pop riveted them together and got this result:

Now I’m just waiting for the final parts to arrive, and tomorrow I’ll make another one for a friend.

By | 2017-03-27T00:15:32+00:00 March 27th, 2017|Building, Costuming, Ghostbusters, Ghostbusters Proton Pack|Comments Off on Ghostbusters Project: Making the charging plate

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