Micke

Home/micke

About micke

This author has not yet filled in any details.
So far micke has created 196 blog entries.

Ghostbusters Project: Metalworks

Things have been a bit slow on this project for some time. Main reason is that I’ve been waiting for some key parts that prevents me from going further.

Last week, One of those items arrived.

The all aluminium proton gun by CPU64, and it is a beauty!

For some reason, I just had to start assembling it, filed the opening for the bar graph just large enough for it to fit, added some switches and buttons and the Clippard valve..

I lacked a tap for 1/8 inch imperial holes, so I could not finish the top button that should be there.

Also, I have only marked the location for the side knob and the heatsink. Still need to figure out the position of the gun rack to go below.

Hat light extends a fair bit below the wing, need to check out ref pics for these if I should cut it shorter or not. Most likely not.

Right now, a lot of wires just shaking lose inside, connected to nothing. I also need to make sure that the wires are not in the way for the pop out mechanism Chris (CPU64) has made. Another thing I need to figure out is how to attach the acrylic tip to the metal tube inside. I am thinking E-6000 or possibly hot glue.

As soon as I get the tap, I can finish off 99% of my proton gun. There is still some work to do, but mainly mounting electronics and rumble pack. I might 3d print some holders for things inside, or use the wall where the heat sink should be placed for getting a few screws for mounting things inside the gun itself.

Another thing I have been waiting for just got picked up by a friend of mine and is being delivered on Monday: Behold! My laser cut motherboard, complete with speaker holes!

This one is a bit scary as it was drawn and designed purely in CAD and should fit my Nick-a-tron shell, in theory, but I won’t know until I’ve actually tried.

I chose not to add any holes for rivets at this point, for obvious reasons 😉

(I just love how the mother board is first: upside down, and on the wrong side up. It’s almost difficult to place it more wrong =)

By | 2017-05-20T23:56:00+00:00 May 20th, 2017|Building, Ghostbusters, Ghostbusters Proton Pack|Comments Off on Ghostbusters Project: Metalworks

Ghostbusters Project: Attaching the N-filter

There comes a time in a build project where you just have to commit. To me, that day was today.

I had previously cut up the aluminium N-filter to match the curvature of the shell (fairly well), and today was the day when I decided to really fix it in to place.

I had decided, however, to add a smoke machine and some lightning inside this part, so I needed to make it accessible. The only way of doing this, would be to either have it bolted on somehow, or cut open the shell. I opted for the second option.

I marked the outline of the n-filter with a marker (on to painters tape, as I had already painted the bulk of the shell, I then went on with drawing a line offset 5-6 mm inside the outline, and used this as an outline for the hole I was going to cut up.
I didn’t want to just start cutting with my dremel as I have had “accidents” with the cutting wheel before, so I opted for something more safe. Drilling holes. A lot of them

Once I had drilled holes all around, and in some places, used my power drill as a mill, this is what I was left with. A big gaping ugly hole. It did however proved ample access from the inside:

In comes the rotary tool with a sanding extension to clean the jagged edges up nicely. I did touch up some of the cutouts on my N-filter as well, as I had moved it slightly from the originally planed position.

In order to fasten the metal N-filter to the fibre glass shell, I used a two-component epoxy putty. The drawback of this, is that it is fairly fast curing, so I didn’t have time to pause for pictures while doing this.

I first rolled a long snake of the putty once I’ve worked the hardener into the material, and pushed right inside the outline of where the N-filter would go, and then pushed the N-filter (hard) in to place, squishing the putty down. I then removed excess material, and worked up a new bunch of epoxy putty, making snakes again, and this time pushed in the material in the joint between the fibre glass shell and the aluminium filter. Using the wooden end of a fine paintbrush, rubber gloves and pure isopropanol, I smoothed the edges out and cleaned off excess material.

The isopropanol I have in my workspace is fairly strong, 99.5%, so in addition to the gently rubbing to smooth the putty out, I removed some paint at the same time.

After I was happy with the putty (it took me 3 rounds of adding and smoothing), I let it sit for 10 minutes (I did say it was fast curing) and then gently painted over the joint with normal black paint.

I figured that if the filter was attached to the cyclotron, which was texturized, and welded in place, the paint which was added would not have been texturized. It turned out just great.

Here’s a picture from the inside:

I have since reinforced the joint slightly from the inside, and removed excess putty with an exacto knife. Next session, I will grind the opening inside to perfectly match the N-filter, then reinforce some more, and start working on the drop-in insert that I am building for the light and smoke machine.

As a final teaser, here are some of the things that dropped in the past week:

The crank knob is the real thing. Just the wrong colour. Will need to trade or paint it. We’ll see.

By | 2017-05-02T09:01:03+00:00 May 2nd, 2017|Building, Costuming, Ghostbusters, Ghostbusters Proton Pack|Comments Off on Ghostbusters Project: Attaching the N-filter

Ghostbusters Project: The first money shot

A couple of minor updates within the last few days, that in itself were not big enough to warrant a blog post, but now..

First off, I took the daring step of drilling hole in my shell for the split loom. I had previously 3d printed a loom holder, and it was time to jump off the cliff..

I marked off where the loom would pass through the shell, and step drilled the hole up to 30mm, which was the diameter of my holder, then used my dremel to cut down from the half circle to the bottom of the shell.

A little sanding and filing, and it turned out pretty good.

Can’t wait for my proper motherboard to arrive so I can start mounting things. I did have to bondo and sand and repaint a bit around the hole, but that was fixed as well as the bondoed piece on the right.

In addition to this, I got a new shipment of fun pieces. Not all of these are accurate, but to my defense, I ordered some of these prior to finding the proper ones.

Having almost all pieces in place, I decided it was time for my first pic with placement of most parts.

I still intend to replace most resin parts with aluminium, but until I have them, the resin parts will do.

It was about here I found how wonky some parts of the shell is. The upper left corner where the ion arm is supposed to sit had a height difference of 3 mm from the corner to the inner corner of the ion arm placement. I had to balance the resin ion arm (that I had sanded flat) on an m3 nut on the inner corner for it to not fall down.

To fix this, I decided to mask off parts of that shell, sand down the highest points and add loctite putty to build up a base. It took me about 45 minutes to fix, but the result was pretty good.

You can clearly see the bulk that was build up. Dry fitting with the ion arm leaves this:

Nice and flat!

The shell went out on the balcony for a bit of touch up on the hammerite black paint, and once that’s dry, most of the shell work should be done.

I also hot glued in my coloured lenses for the power bar and the cyclotron…

… only to realize that I have RGB LED’s in my light pack, and the program does four different colours, so I had to cut them off. Oh well 🙂

I also took out the metal parts and the black glossy plastic box of my 3d printed ghost trap, courtesy of countspatula and went over them with flat black before assembling again.

I have built in a remote control in my pedal to not have to use the hose for anything functional at all, and I decided to also wire up the LED on the remote to a small LED on the pedal. It is not very bright, but a nice little addition, I think.

 

By | 2017-04-14T16:53:59+00:00 April 14th, 2017|Building, Costuming, Ghostbusters Proton Pack, Stormtrooper|Comments Off on Ghostbusters Project: The first money shot

Building R2-D2 is Stephen Fry proof thanks to caching by WP Super Cache